Have you ever dreamed of stepping back in time to explore an ancient Tibetan kingdom, where centuries-old monasteries cling to desert cliffs and prayer flags flutter against impossibly blue skies? Welcome to Upper Mustang—Nepal’s best-kept secret and one of the world’s most extraordinary trekking destinations.
Once completely closed to foreigners until 1992, Upper Mustang remains a restricted area that has preserved its unique Tibetan Buddhist culture like nowhere else on Earth. This 19-day trek with ABC Adventures takes you through dramatic desert landscapes, medieval walled cities, and sacred caves that have witnessed over a thousand years of spiritual devotion. Whether you’re seeking cultural immersion, breathtaking photography opportunities, or an adventure off the beaten path, Upper Mustang delivers an experience unlike any other trek in Nepal.
Why Upper Mustang Is Unlike Any Other Trek in Nepal
A Living Museum of Tibetan Culture
While most of Tibet has undergone significant modernization, Upper Mustang has remained remarkably unchanged. The region sits in the rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs, creating an arid, high-altitude desert that closely resembles the Tibetan plateau. Here, ancient Tibetan Buddhist traditions thrive exactly as they have for centuries.
What makes it unique:
- Restricted access requiring special permits limits visitor numbers, ensuring authentic experiences
- Medieval architecture with whitewashed mud-brick homes and ornate monasteries
- Ancient cave complexes carved into cliffs, some dating back over 2,000 years
- Pre-Buddhist Bon traditions coexisting with Tibetan Buddhism
- Lo Manthang, the walled capital city founded in 1380, remains remarkably intact
- Sky burial sites and sacred landscapes offering insights into Tibetan death rituals
Landscapes That Defy Imagination
Upper Mustang’s terrain is dramatically different from the lush, forested valleys typical of most Nepali treks. The landscape here is raw, rugged, and hauntingly beautiful.
Geographic highlights:
- Towering ochre, red, and gold cliffs eroded into fantastical formations
- Vast desert plateaus at 3,500-4,000 meters elevation
- The Kali Gandaki River valley—the deepest gorge in the world
- Distant views of Nilgiri (7,061m), Annapurna (8,091m), and Dhaulagiri (8,167m)
- Wind-sculpted canyons and hidden valleys
- Sparse, high-altitude vegetation with hardy junipers and Himalayan wild roses
The Perfect Trek for Cultural Explorers
If you’ve already completed popular treks like Everest Base Camp or Annapurna Circuit and want something completely different, Upper Mustang is ideal. It’s less about conquering high passes and more about cultural discovery, though the landscapes and photography opportunities are equally spectacular.
The 19-Day Upper Mustang Trek Itinerary
ABC Adventures has crafted this comprehensive itinerary to maximize your cultural immersion while ensuring proper acclimatization and comfort.
Overview
- Duration: 19 days total (14 days actual trekking)
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Maximum Altitude: 3,840m (Lo Manthang)
- Best Seasons: March-May and September-November
- Minimum Group Size: 2 people
- Distance: Approximately 170km
Day-by-Day Breakdown
Days 1-2: Kathmandu to Pokhara Your journey begins with a scenic drive or short flight to Pokhara, Nepal’s second-largest city and the gateway to the Annapurna region. You’ll have time to explore Lakeside, finalize permits, and prepare for the trek ahead.
Day 3: Pokhara to Jomsom (2,720m) A thrilling 25-minute flight through the world’s deepest gorge brings you to Jomsom, where the desert landscape immediately signals you’ve entered a different world. The contrast from Pokhara’s lush valleys is striking.
Day 4: Jomsom to Kagbeni (2,800m) Your official entry into the restricted Upper Mustang region begins here. Kagbeni, an ancient fortress village, sits at the gateway to Upper Mustang. The medieval atmosphere is palpable as you wander narrow alleys between traditional homes.
Days 5-7: Kagbeni → Tsele → Syangboche → Gami → Gekar These days take you progressively deeper into Mustang’s heartland. You’ll traverse high plateaus, cross mountain passes adorned with prayer flags, and visit villages where life continues much as it has for centuries. Each settlement offers unique monasteries, chortens, and opportunities to interact with local people.
Highlights along this section:
- Ancient cave dwellings at Tsele
- Red cliff monasteries with priceless Buddhist art
- Traditional barley fields irrigated by ingenious water systems
- Encounters with yak caravans carrying salt from Tibet
- Nightly stays in traditional Tibetan-style guesthouses
Days 8-10: Arrival and Exploration of Lo Manthang (3,840m)
The crown jewel of the trek, Lo Manthang has served as the capital of the Kingdom of Lo since 1380. Enclosed by six-meter-high mud-brick walls, this walled city contains approximately 150 buildings and remains the residence of the Raja (King) of Mustang.
Must-see in Lo Manthang:
- Royal Palace: A four-story structure where the royal family still resides
- Jampa Lhakhang (Jampa Gompa): Houses a massive clay statue of Maitreya Buddha
- Thugchen Gompa: Features extraordinary 15th-century murals
- Chhoser Cave Complex: Located nearby, with dozens of chambers carved into cliffs
- Daily life: Observe traditional farming, religious ceremonies, and social interactions
You’ll spend two full days exploring Lo Manthang and surrounding areas, allowing time to truly absorb this extraordinary place.
Days 11-13: Lo Manthang → Yara → Luri Gompa → Tange
The return journey follows a different route, offering fresh perspectives and new discoveries.
Yara Village is known for its massive prayer wheel and serves as the base for visiting Luri Gompa—one of Upper Mustang’s most spectacular monasteries, featuring 13th-century paintings in remarkably preserved condition.
Tange offers panoramic mountain views and marks your progression back toward the Kali Gandaki valley.
Days 14-16: Tange → Tsusang → Muktinath
Your route gradually descends through varied terrain. Muktinath (3,710m) is one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in Nepal, revered by both Hindus and Buddhists. The temple complex features 108 water spouts and an eternal flame fed by natural gas.
Day 17: Muktinath to Jomsom
A relatively easy descent brings you back to Jomsom, where you can celebrate the completion of your trek with a hot shower and a hearty meal.
Day 18: Jomsom to Pokhara
Return flight to Pokhara (weather permitting), or alternative road options if flights are delayed.
Day 19: Pokhara to Kathmandu
Your adventure concludes with the return to Kathmandu, carrying memories of an extraordinary journey.
What Makes This Trek Moderate Difficulty?
Upper Mustang is classified as moderate difficulty, making it accessible to trekkers with reasonable fitness who may not have extensive high-altitude experience.
Physical Requirements
Advantages that make it “moderate”:
- Maximum altitude of 3,840m is lower than many Nepal treks (EBC reaches 5,643m)
- No technical climbing or extreme elevation gain on any single day
- Well-established trails with teahouse accommodation throughout
- Gradual altitude gain allows for good acclimatization
- Daily trekking distances average 5-7 hours
Challenges to prepare for:
- Multi-day commitment requires stamina and endurance
- Remote location means limited access to medical facilities
- Strong winds, especially in afternoon hours
- Arid climate requires adaptation for those from humid environments
- Some long days over high passes (though none exceeding 4,000m significantly)
Recommended Preparation
3 months before:
- Build cardiovascular endurance with hiking, cycling, or running (3-4 times weekly)
- Include hill/stair training with a backpack
- Practice multi-day consecutive hiking to build stamina
1 month before:
- Increase training intensity with longer weekend hikes
- Test all gear on training hikes
- Focus on leg strength exercises
- Begin altitude acclimatization if possible (not essential)
Good news: You don’t need to be an athlete, just reasonably fit and determined.
Cultural Highlights: What You’ll Experience
Tibetan Buddhist Monasteries and Art
Upper Mustang contains some of the finest examples of Himalayan Buddhist art outside Tibet itself. The region’s isolation has protected ancient murals, statues, and manuscripts from destruction.
Notable religious sites:
- Luri Gompa: 13th-century paintings depicting tantric deities and mandalas
- Garphu Monastery: Rock paintings and meditation caves
- Lo Gekar Monastery: Said to predate Samye Monastery in Tibet, possibly over 1,200 years old
- Cave complexes: Thousands of caves carved into cliffs, used for meditation, living quarters, and storage
Living Traditions and Daily Life
Unlike museum exhibits, Upper Mustang’s culture is vibrantly alive. You’ll witness:
Daily practices:
- Morning puja (prayer ceremonies) at monasteries
- Farmers working barley fields and tending livestock
- Women spinning wool and weaving textiles
- Traditional architecture repair using ancient techniques
- Polyandry (one woman married to multiple brothers) still occasionally practiced
- Elaborate death rituals and sky burial traditions
Festivals and ceremonies: If you trek during festival periods, you might witness:
- Tiji Festival (April/May): A three-day celebration with masked dances
- Yartung Festival (August): Horse races and archery competitions
- Various Buddhist ceremonies marking auspicious dates
Interacting with Local Communities
The people of Upper Mustang, predominantly of Tibetan descent, are known for their warmth and hospitality despite the harsh environment.
Cultural etiquette tips:
- Always walk clockwise around mani walls, chortens, and monasteries
- Ask permission before photographing people or inside religious sites
- Remove shoes before entering homes and temples
- Accept offerings of butter tea with both hands
- Learn basic Nepali greetings (“Namaste”) and Tibetan phrases (“Tashi Delek”)
- Respect religious artifacts and never touch sacred objects without permission
Best Time to Trek Upper Mustang
Upper Mustang’s position in the rain shadow makes it one of the few Nepali treks accessible during monsoon season (June-August), though the ideal times remain spring and autumn.
Spring Season (March-May)
Advantages:
- Clear skies and excellent mountain visibility
- Moderate temperatures (daytime: 10-20°C; nighttime: -5 to 5°C)
- Blooming wildflowers in lower elevations
- Tiji Festival celebrations (usually late April/early May)
- Stable weather patterns with minimal precipitation
Considerations:
- Peak tourist season means more trekkers (though still far fewer than Everest or Annapurna base camps)
- Higher prices for domestic flights and accommodation
- Strong afternoon winds are common
Autumn Season (September-November)
Advantages:
- Crystal-clear post-monsoon air offering spectacular photography conditions
- Comfortable trekking temperatures
- Harvest season provides cultural insights into agricultural traditions
- Reliable weather with very low precipitation
- Mountain views at their finest
Considerations:
- Popular season requires advance booking
- Colder temperatures as autumn progresses toward winter
- Occasional early snowfall in November at higher elevations
Monsoon Season (June-August)
Unique opportunity: While most of Nepal receives heavy rain, Upper Mustang’s desert climate stays relatively dry.
Pros:
- Fewer trekkers create a more solitary experience
- Lower prices for flights and accommodation
- Green landscapes (relatively speaking for this arid region)
- Yartung Festival in August
Cons:
- Some rain possible, especially at lower elevations
- Cloudy conditions can obscure mountain views
- Potential flight delays to/from Jomsom
- Trails can be muddy in sections
Winter Season (December-February)
Not recommended for most trekkers:
- Extreme cold (temperatures dropping to -20°C or lower at night)
- Heavy snowfall can block trails
- Many guesthouses close for the season
- Very short daylight hours
- Risk of frostbite and severe cold-related illness
However: Experienced winter trekkers seeking ultimate solitude sometimes attempt winter expeditions with proper equipment and preparation.
Permits and Regulations: Essential Information
Upper Mustang’s restricted status means additional permits beyond standard trekking requirements.
Required Permits
1. Restricted Area Permit (RAP)
- Cost: USD $500 per person for first 10 days, then $50 per additional day
- Requirement: Minimum 2 trekkers (can join groups)
- Must trek with registered agency: Independent trekking not allowed
- Processing time: 1-2 days in Kathmandu
- Valid for: Specific dates and route only
2. Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)
- Cost: NPR 3,000 (approximately USD $23)
- Valid for: Entry to Annapurna Conservation Area, which includes the approach through Jomsom
3. TIMS Card (Trekkers’ Information Management System)
- Cost: NPR 2,000 for organized treks
- Purpose: Trekker tracking and safety
What ABC Adventures Handles
As a TAAN-registered agency, ABC Adventures manages all permit processing, ensuring:
- Correct documentation and applications
- Liaison with government authorities
- Permit collection and delivery
- Proper route and date registration
- Group coordination for solo travelers
You provide:
- Passport copy and photos
- Completed application forms
- Payment
ABC Adventures delivers:
- All permits ready before trek departure
- Government-licensed guides trained in Upper Mustang
- Full compliance with regulations
Accommodation and Food on the Trail
Teahouse Lodging
Unlike camping treks, Upper Mustang offers teahouse accommodation throughout, providing a unique balance of comfort and authenticity.
What to expect:
- Basic but clean rooms: Twin beds with mattresses, pillows, and blankets
- Shared facilities: Common dining areas and bathrooms (some with attached bathrooms in main villages)
- Heating: Limited; wood or dung-burning stoves in dining rooms (bring a warm sleeping bag!)
- Electricity: Solar power in most villages (charge devices during day hours)
- Hot showers: Available for extra fee (NPR 200-500), though often solar-heated
In Lo Manthang: Slightly better facilities with some guesthouses offering ensuite bathrooms.
Meals and Cuisine
Food on the Upper Mustang trek reflects both traditional Tibetan cuisine and standard trekking menu items.
Typical breakfast options:
- Tibetan bread with jam and honey
- Porridge (oatmeal or tsampa)
- Pancakes or chapati
- Eggs (boiled, fried, or omelet)
- Hot drinks (tea, coffee, hot lemon)
Lunch and dinner favorites:
- Dal bhat: Nepal’s staple meal of rice, lentil soup, vegetables, and pickle (unlimited refills!)
- Thukpa: Hearty Tibetan noodle soup with vegetables or meat
- Momo: Steamed dumplings (vegetarian or meat)
- Sherpa stew: Thick vegetable and potato stew
- Fried rice or chow mein: Chinese-influenced dishes
- Yak meat curry: Local specialty (in some villages)
- Tibetan butter tea: An acquired taste but culturally significant
Dietary considerations:
- Vegetarian options widely available
- Vegan options possible (inform your guide in advance)
- Western food available but quality varies
- Fresh vegetables and variety decrease at higher elevations
- Boiled/filtered water essential (bring purification tablets or filter)
Pro tip: Dal bhat provides excellent sustained energy for trekking and supports local lodges economically.


